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eLearning Series: Hair Loss
Stop My Hair Loss, Please!
Black
Hair Basics
The
typical hair and hair follicles of those of African descent
are tightly curled, thus producing hair that spirals. Black
hair also typically has a larger diameter than Caucasian
hair and retains less water, thus its relative “kinkiness.” The
many styling methods utilized on Black hair cause concern
with hair loss. Black hair is very strong, fortunately
so, because Black hair styles cause a great deal of stress
on the hair and scalp.
For
example, using a hair pick to pick the hair up to a bushy
style is a very damaging process due to the constant pulling
causing stress on the hair shaft as well as the follicle.
In fact, combing Black hair in general can create high stress
on Black hair and cause breakage, which perpetuates dryness.
Conrowing and braiding are methods of hairstyling that pull
the hair tight, and this can cause a great deal of stress
on the hair and scalp resulting in hair loss. Braiding
that results in the hair being pulled very tight can cause
traumatic alopecia, a hair loss that is caused by
trauma to the hair and scalp. Traumatic alopecia is usually
reversible with proper hair care.
Hot
combs and relaxers used to straighten hair can cause a
great deal of heat and chemical damage to hair and scalp,
which can also cause traumatic alopecia, and over time
can cause permanent hair loss. This becomes especially
true when the heat or chemically processed hair is pulled
tight by rollers or a hot curling iron.
Hot
oil conditioners are excellent for Black hair,
as hot oil treatments contain proteins and polymers vital
to repairing the hair cuticles. Hot oil treatments involve
heating the oil and putting it into the hair and scalp,
then covering the hair with a plastic cap to allow the
oil to soak in. Follow the recommendations on the treatment
you are using for the amount of time you should leave the
treatment on your hair. This process can heal breakages
and shinier stronger hair will be the result.
Consider
that hair relaxers commonly used on Black hair contain lye
or similar chemicals that break down the hair shaft. Left
on beyond the recommended time, these chemicals will eat
right through the hair and cause it to fall out in clumps.
This is why these same products are used in products like
Drano® to clean clogged drains which often are clogged
by hair. No-lye relaxers are very popular today, mainly because
it leads people to believe that the product is not caustic.
This is far from the truth. The combination of calcium hydroxide
and guanidine carbonate are combined to form guanidine hydroxide,
which could just as easily clean a sink. Repeated use of
such products can cause some degree of hair loss, and if
scarring occurs while using these chemicals, the hair loss
can be permanent in that area of the scalp. You must ask
yourself is it wise to place such caustic chemicals in
your hair on a regular basis for the sake of desired appearance?
The question must be answered by each individual, however
the facts should be known.
There
is little that can be done to alleviate this syndrome without
changing the typical hairstyles of African Americans. There
is a catch-22 concerning relaxing Black hair, since
combing natural Black hair causes so much stress and breakage
of hair, while chemicals cause so much harm to the hair and
scalp as well. There are a few hair-relaxing products on
the market that use chemicals and are somewhat less harsh
than sodium hydroxide (lye) or its popular equivalent in
“no-lye” relaxers: calcium hydroxide (quicklime) mixed with
guanidine carbonate. One such product is called Natural-Laxer® and
Sahara Clay® by Baka Products™ that has been on the
market since 1990. This product is all natural and because
it does not contain many of the harsh chemicals of commercial
relaxers and actually contains only a finely ground plant
called Daphne Gnidium and clay from Africa it is figured
to be relatively safe. Of course this product does not straighten
hair in most instances the same way as commercial relaxers,
however it does tend to make Black hair more manageable.
There is yet another product on the market that is reported
to be 92-96% natural which is called Naturalaxer Kit In A
Jar™ that does not require the applicant to comb through
the hair during the application, which results in a lot less
damage.
Of
course the bottom line is once again, if you can
leave your hair in its natural state then you will experience
less stress and damage to the hair and thus prevent at least
one cause of hair loss. There is a growing segment
of the Black population that is becoming comfortable with
wearing their hair in natural styles. One such style is dreadlocks.
There are many rumors and myths concerning dreadlocks, as
there is little proper information available concerning this
style, and as with anything that is misunderstood many myths
arise around it. Dreadlocks can and must be washed; otherwise
they will smell badly like any other dirty hair. The best
process to use to wash dreadlocks is to use a residue-free
shampoo. Most commercially made shampoos leave residue and
can cause hair not to lock, lending fuel to the rumor that
hair had to be dirty to form dreadlocks. Clean hair actually
locks much better than dirty hair, as dirt is a residue in
itself that will inhibit hair from locking. For best results
you should use a fragrance free, conditioner free shampoo. Dreadlocks do
not react well to oily and greasy substances, yet there are
many good substances that are on the market today that will
assist you in forming dreadlocks.
Dreadlocks are
formed through a process, not simply by not combing or brushing
the hair. Generally, you should start with hair about two
inches in length, and the hair should be separated into even
squares of hair and twisted gently together using a bonding
or gel substance. Many use natural beeswax containing no
petroleum, while others use loc and twist gels specifically
formulated for locks. Once the hair is separated and twisted
into small locks, it is important that they are left alone
and allowed to bond naturally. The length of time it will
take to lock will depend on the coarseness of your hair,
but one can normally expect to wait several months before
locks begin to form. While the hair is locking, it will need
to be washed. Here is where washing should be extended for
a while if possible, so that the hair can be allowed to lock
for two weeks to about a month without manipulation. When
you do wash your hair, use a stocking cap or “do-rag”, and
low-pressure water to make sure that the newly forming locks
do not come loose. It will be necessary to rinse for a much
longer time than you normally do, because of the lower pressure
of the water and the lack of direct manipulation of your
hair with your hands. The water is good for your hair and
locking process, so this is not a problem. It is also imperative
as indicated before that you use a shampoo that does not
contain a conditioner and leaves as little residue as possible.
A little research on your part will be necessary here; your
health food store should contain a variety of natural shampoos.
Have a skilled professional or a friend re-twist the hair
gently, reapplying the twist gel or beeswax that you used
previously. Repeat this process every two weeks to a month,
the longer you are able to wait the better, and within a
few months your hair will begin to lock.
Again,
if you have a fine grade of hair rather than a kinky grade
of hair, a beautician skilled at forming locks (“locktitian”)
or a friend who is very familiar with the hairstyle should
be consulted. Even though dreadlocks are mainly a hairstyle
for Black people, there are other races that have people
that enjoy the hairstyle. In general, it tends to be a style
of
hair
that in the long run will give the hair and scalp needed
rest from the rigors of chemical and heat treatments and
rigorous combing and brushing, and therefore can contribute
to longer life for your hair.
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> Home > Hair
Loss Main Page
- Hair
Loss Prevention and Treatments
- Cause
of Hair Loss: Male Pattern Baldness
- Vitamins
for Hair Loss: Vitamins A, B, C, E
- Vitamins
for Hair Loss: Zinc, Protein and Fatty Acids
- Vitamins
for Hair Loss: Fiber, Zinc and Iron
- Stop
Hair Loss: Juicing plus substances to avoid
- Natural
Hair Loss Remedy: Saw Palmetto, Nettles, Rosemary, Sage
- Natural
Hair Loss Remedy: Aloe Vera, Henna, Saffron, Polysorbate-80
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